Baking with sun from Texel

This summer I walked over the grainfields on Texel with Meine Koopmans, organic farmer at the Novalishoeve. Emiliano spelt, lichtkorn rye, durum wheat. “Wait, durum wheat? Isn’t that a grain that thrives much better in warm climates?”, I look at Meine questioningly… “Yes, that’s what most people think. But why would the result here be bad?…

Pizza al farro: fusione di passione

Neapolitan pizza from organic spelt, grown and milled on wind in the North of Holland. This was the concept for a workshop that I gave in sourdough pizzeria El Flaco recently. The flames gently stroke over the dome of the wood oven. It looks calm, but looks are deceiving. In the oven the temperature is…

Muscle ball dough with almonds and apricots

Muscle ball dough … That was buzzing through my mind when I was making a number of testing doughs on a late Saturday evening in Maalderij de Gouden Engel. With the “Desem Atelier”, I find it fascinating to view the taste and strength of grains. One of the test doughs needed muscle balls to be…

Neapolitan pizzeria with Dolimites sourdough

It started as an internship at pizzeria Per Bacco  in the hills of the Italian Langhe and is now an integral part of my life: Neapolitan pizza. After years of thinking, kneading, baking, tasting and adjusting my recipe, I developed a dough without yeast, with my own sourdough culture. I owe my mother forever for using…

Panificio Marcarino: from Enkir to Senatore Cappelli

After three times driving up and down the small road nearby the village of Roddino, my hope slowly fades. This isn’t the logic place to put a bakery, with only a few houses, barking dogs and hazelnut trees as far as my eyes can see. This morning I called Roberto, one of the few sourdough…

Thursday afternoon with Davide Longoni

Out of the Swiss-Engadin, I’m driving into a quivering hot Milano around 1 p.m. The highway is extremely quiet due to all the Italians enjoying holidays. Just a bit later I’m in front of the gate at Via Tertulliano. Nummer 70 it has to be; the place where Davide Longoni has his bread laboratory. I…

Grasboter desem-galette met abrikozen

Mijn zoektocht naar de ambachten achter de weg van kiem tot kruim brengt me regelmatig op de Texelse Novalishoeve. Laatst was ik op bezoek mij Meine Koopmans en de prachtige granen die hij daar onder zijn hoede heeft. Ik was verbaasd over het aantal soorten, van roodkleurende speltaren tot harde tarwe. Meine vertelde me dat…